Schools rethink vending-machine fare
But some school officials fret about potential loss of
junk-food income
By Jamie Vaznis, Globe Staff, 3/17/2004
WARWICK, R.I. -- The
Coca-Cola, Snickers bars, and Skittles
in the vending machines at Toll Gate High School should tempt any
teenager. But every morning, John Katsetos snubs those treats in favor of
something all-natural.
The 16-year-old junior slips a dollar into the school's newest vending
machine and retrieves a bottle of chocolate soymilk.
"Most kids think soy and go ew, but it [tastes] nice going down," said
Katsetos, a Toll Gate baseball player who never drank soymilk until the
school installed the vending machine last fall.
After spending nearly a decade boosting the healthfulness of cafeteria
lunches, public schools are taking on the last frontier in school
nutrition: the vending machine.
In some cases, school leaders are replacing some junk food items with
healthier choices. In other schools, such as Toll Gate High and two other
Rhode Island high schools, they are adding vending machines stocked
exclusively with all-natural or organic food as part of an experiment with
a New Hampshire health food company.
Tomorrow, schools in six Massachusetts communities -- Billerica,
Danvers, Gloucester, Natick, Wilmington, and Woburn -- join the effort.
In the future, however, health-food vending machines could become the
standard for schools in Massachusetts or even across the nation. Congress
and the Legislature will consider bills this year to ban sale of junk food
in schools, at least during school hours, and the Boston City Council
passed a resolution earlier this month urging the School Committee to
impose a similar ban.
The committee, which was already working on a change, could propose a
policy by the end of this month that would set nutritional standards for
snacks sold in school vending machines, cafeterias, and stores.
But most schools are not prohibiting the sale of junk food on campus.
School officials say they care about students' health, but have to cope
with an economic reality. Potato chips and candy bars sell better than
dried fruit and soy nuts, and schools make tens of thousands of dollars
from vending sales, money that supports sports and other programs.
Machines with healthier assortments offer items such as string cheese,
pita chips, organic yogurt, soy nuts, dried fruit, and carrots and dip. To
entice students to buy the products, schools sell the items at about the
same price as the candy bars and potato chips in the traditional vending
machines. Even then, it is not always an easy sell.
At Gloucester High yesterday, students sampled some of the new snacks
during a free taste test.
Ariel Sargent spit a mouthful of barbecue-flavored soy chips into a
garbage can.
"It's gross," said the 14-year-old freshman. "It kind of tasted like
styrofoam."
Another freshman, Paul Budrow Jr., wouldn't even try the stuff. He
bolted directly to a row of vending machines and bought a bag of corn
chips.
"I already know this stuff tastes good," he said.
Still, other students swarmed the free sample table organized by the
all-natural yogurt maker Stonyfield Farm of Londonderry, N.H. Several of
the items students recognized, such as the pita chips, the drinkable
yogurts, and the Pirate's Booty, a corn and rice cheese puff that is
marketed as a healthy alternative to Jax cheese curls.
Drinking a raspberry-flavored yogurt, 16-year-old Christina Clayton
said, "This is really good. We should have more vending machines like
this."
Many school administrators, teachers, and health advocates believe that
stocking vending machines with candies is hypocritical; in classes,
students learn the importance of a healthy diet, but at the schools' very
profitable vending machines, they are sold junk food.
"We need to present some healthier options to kids," said Thomas
Powers, the food service director for the Danvers school district, which
recently began removing less healthy food items from vending machines.
"For years, we have been turning a blind eye to the snacks we sell because
it's a big part of our business."
Madeline Perreault, Toll Gate High's principal, advocates healthier
vending, but said her school's dozen or so vending machines generate
thousands of dollars in profits that pay for tournament banners,
cheerleading uniforms, teacher workshops, field trips, and much more.
Schools also receive lucrative bonuses worth several thousand dollars when
they sign contracts with a distributor of soda or other products.
"I'd hate to lose that source of revenue," Perreault said. "It pays for
all the things you like to do in a school that you can't always budget
for." Of the healthy-food vending machine, she said, "I can't say it's a
huge moneymaker."
Gary Hirshberg, president and chief executive officer of Stonyfield
Farm, said healthy vending machines will bring in less profit because the
products cost more to make.
He said the Stonyfield machines stocked with health food have been
generating sales that average between $150 and $200 a week in the Rhode
Island schools. He estimates sales from traditional machines range between
$400 and $800 a week.
But he said he hopes the costs of producing the items will drop as more
schools turn to healthy vending machines. For now, he said, his company is
selling the food for the vending machines at a reduced price.
"I don't know if we will ever make a nickel, and I don't care," said
Hirshberg, who likes to say he is on a mission to erase the notion that if
food is healthy, children won't eat it.
"If I can make it cool to chug down a [natural yogurt] smoothie or
scarf down a yogurt," he said, "then kids can have a Kit Kat once in a
while."
This story ran on page A1 of the Boston Globe on
3/17/2004.
© Copyright
2003 Globe Newspaper Company.